Subscribe by Email

Your email:

Magnetic Key Case

Follow Me

Protect Your Remote

View Silicon Remote CoversThat Fit Your Remote

Order Batteries For Your Old Remote

Before they die, or worse - Leak!

Posts by category

Contact us

Blogging about Remotes And Keys

Current Articles | RSS Feed RSS Feed

How to shut off your car alarm when it is waking the dead.

  
  
  
  
  
  

It is 6am and you need to go to work.  You go to open your car and the alarm starts blaring.  You lost your remote or your remote does not work all the time.  You are waking your neighbors and it is embarrassing.  How many of you have been there?  I have not myself, but I have heard this story at least a dozen times from customers.

I hope that the advice below will help you out so you can start driving to work.  Nevertheless, before I forget:  ORDER A REMOTE so you don’t have to keep going through this.

On a related note, yesterday a customer with a factory alarm had a similar situation and even though he had a factory keyles entry alarm remote, he insisted he wants to open the door with the key.  I tried to explain to him that if he locks the door with the remote he has to unlock it with the remote – not the key.  Well, 20 minutes into the call I’m not sure if he really understands and he confirmed it by entering the car with the key and setting off the alarm while I’m on the phone.  Don’t be that guy.  Use your remote if you have it.  I won’t even tell you him dumb reason for using the key instead of the keyfob.

Let me start by saying there is no one way to turn off the alarm.  What I will do is take you through my process if I were in the situation.  First, we need to know what we’re dealing with.  Is it a factory or aftermarket alarm?

Factory means it is the alarm system that was installed at the time the vehicle was built.  Aftermarket means it was installed in a shop after the vehicle was first bought.

Factory Alarm

If your factory alarm is blaring because you locked the car with the remote (and it armed the system or if the system arms itself) and then you open the door with the key instead of the remote, then in most cases starting the car with the key will stop the alarm from blaring.

car keys and car doorIf not, close the door and turn the key in the driver’s side door lock twice - like this: LOCK UNLOCK, LOCK UNLOCK.

If that doesn’t work and you can still use the radio, jot down all yourdisconnect car battery programmed stations because what I am about to suggest will make you lose them.  Disconnect your battery for 5 minutes.

Disconnecting the battery for 5 minutes will usually (maybe 7 times out of 10) reset the alarm and resolve the problem.  Some cars have a radio security feature called radio lock.  If your radio radio lockedgets locked you can call your local dealer parts department, give your VIN and they will give you the radio unlock code.

If not, and if this is an older car from the 90s you may be able to disconnect the system.  I won’t give you advice on that because I’m afraid you’ll screw up your car and blame me.  See an alarm shop, qualified mechanic or preferably an automotive electrician.  In most cars from the 2000s to now, the factory alarm isgm tech2 scan tool integrated into the car’s computer (sometimes called PCM, BCM, or ECM) and trust me you do not want anyone messing with it.  You can see the dealer for option programming.  This means they hook up a proprietary scan tool to the car and communicate with the car’s computer to tell it how to behave - in this case to disable the alarm.  Not all vehicles have this option available. 

In the end if none of this works for you then the dealer can replace the system for you – probably at an outrageous cost.

Aftermarket Alarm

aftermarket systemThere are so many different brands and models of aftermarket alarms that this advice may not apply to your system.  However, I will “guesstimate” that it applies to 90% of systems out there.

The first thing to try is to put the system into valet mode.  Valet mode is the state of the system you want to put the car in when you give your car to valet parking.  That way you just give them a valet key and no remote (so there is nothing expensive for them to lose.)

As I said, there are many different systems and so there are many ways to enter valet mode.  The most common is described below:
1. Open the driver door.
2. Put the key in ignition and turn to ON.  (ON is where the dash has power but you are not cranking the engine yet.)
3. Press the valet button or switch one time

Variations to try: 
• Don’t open the driver door in step
• Turn engine ON instead of just the dash.

For those who don’t know what I’m talking about when I say valet button or switch, check out these pictures:

valet buttonvalet switch

With the brand and model name of your system, you can search online for the owner’s manual of the system.  It will say how to enter and exit valet mode with exact instructions for your system.  The brand and model name of the system are located on the receiver.  Maybe only the brand will be on the remote – if anything.  The FCC ID or part number on the back of the remote will narrow down the search to a few systems but it isn’t enough to isolate one particular system.  Most remotes work on a bunch of different systems.  The receiver is located under the dash.  Stick your head where your feet go and look up.

Even though the proper installation of the system includes the valet switch or button, not every installer uses best practices when installing the system.  If you can’t find the valet switch, see the following article: TROUBLESHOOTING WHEN YOU CAN’T FIND THE VALET SWITCH.

If that doesn’t work then we move on to try to reset the system.  If you can still use the radio, jot down all your programmed stations because what I am about to suggest will make you lose them.  Disconnect your battery for 30 minutes.  Normally 1 to 5 minutes will suffice but many alarm systems have a battery backup to prevent car thieves from disconnecting the battery.

Disconnecting the battery will usually reset the alarm and resolve the problem.  Some cars have a radio security feature called radio lock.  If your radio gets locked, you can call your local dealer parts department, give your VIN and they will give you the radio unlock code.

Let’s say that doesn’t work.  My next question is whether your alarm is justalarm siren blaring a siren but you can still drive, or is there a starter cutoff associated with the alarm as well.

If you are not dealing with a starter cutoff and your alarm has its own siren, then you can just snip the wire about an inch before the siren.  If your alarm uses the car’s horn then do not tamper with that – it is probably illegal in most states to disable the horn.

If you do have a starter disable with the alarm, then cutting the siren will not do any good – unless you’re so sick of hearing it you’ll feel immense relief knowing you’ll never hear it again.  You still won’t be able to start the engine and drive.

Aftermarket alarms are not integrated into the car’s computer so there is no harm in simply disconnecting it.  They have wires plugged into the receiver (the brain of the system.)  Simply unplugging them will do the trick.  The receiver is located under the dashboard – usually on the driver’s side.  Put your head near the pedals and look up.  If you don’t see it, try the passenger side.  The receiver won’t be under the hood or in the trunk.

The receiver (a.k.a. brain or control module) is a plastic box with wires coming out of it.  If will usually have the brand and model name on it.  Therefore, if your remote says Viper and the box says Viper, you know your looking at the right box.  It may be approximately 3” x 5”x 1”.  Sizes vary greatly but it will definitely be significantly smaller than a box of tissues. 

If you find a smaller box – maybe the size of a pack of cigarettes or smaller – it is not the receiver.  That is probably a shock sensor or some other accessory module associated with the system.  However, follow the wires from that module to the receiver of the system.  If you know where your valet switch is, or you see the LED light from the alarm, then follow the wire from that to the receiver.

Some installers put the system so deep into the dash you can’t find it without taking off the lower dashboard cover or kick panel.  I hate when they do that.  If that is the case for you then my suggestion is not to take apart the dash and instead go to an alarm shop, automotive electrical shop, or very qualified mechanic.

There is one more situation that can cause the alarm to go nuts.  I call it "Everpress."  This is where a defect with the remote causes it to constantly send out a signal.  It isn't very common but I've seen it few times.  When it first starts, it is not possible to detect unless you have a keyless entry tester.  But after about 24 hours you can tell because the battery in the remote is dead.  It is caused by a faulty button or excess moisture making contact for the button.  If Everpress is causing your alarm to go nuts then just take the battery out of your remote and order a new one.  If you just changed the battery of your remote and are having everpress for the first time, then you probably closed the remote poorly and one of the buttons is in the pressed position.
 

Comments

Thanks bro, this helped me alot. 
Posted @ Friday, February 15, 2013 7:48 AM by Blake
Great article, I need some assistance please. I have same situation with my 2008 CRV, if I unlock the door with a key then alarm goes off (not car horn but alarm siren) either right away or after I start the car (this does not happen if I unlock with a remote). How do I control this as if I ever loose remote (or remote battery dead), I can never start the car because of this crazy alarm going off (if door unlocked with a key).  
I thought I have an aftermarket alarm but one guy said since this alarm works with the same remote (FOB) that came with the car to unlock / lock the car, he thinks it has to be dealer installed (if not factory) alarm, do you agree?  
As a side note I recently replaced my door side actuator (OEM part) and I am guessing I need to reset the alarm. I really want to complete drained the alarm with any previous programming. How do I do this? Will battery unplugging for 30 minutes is a better choice or removing wire harness from alarm brain (I hope I can find that). Please advice. 
Posted @ Tuesday, March 12, 2013 8:40 AM by Zafar
GRRRR!!! I have a 2007 Ford Taurus. When leaving the store this evening a siren went off. I've never heard this alarm on my car before. It wasn't the normal horn honking alarm. My car was unable to start but still had power to the lights, etc. Help! My only car is stranded in the store parking lot!
Posted @ Tuesday, April 09, 2013 9:02 PM by angie
If the problem is from ford factory security then do this: 
Enter vehicle, close door. Open door. Insert key and turn to ON position. On the open driver door press the power locks switch like this: LOCK, UNLOCK, LOCK, UNLOCK. That will disable factory security and you should be able to start the car. If not, then the problem wasn't from the Ford Factory Security System.  
 
If the problem is from an aftermarket security system then the instructions in the article above should help.
Posted @ Wednesday, April 10, 2013 9:03 AM by Tech Support
This is very helpful. Saved me trouble of towing to nearest workshop and the money of couse. Thanks!
Posted @ Saturday, April 20, 2013 9:08 AM by Mo
Hello 
 
Can the alarm be deleted/removed from a Mazda 6 (2006)? 
I want it removing from my cars CPU/ECU  
I live in England in a built up area and my alarm keeps going off for no reason what so ever and it's getting pretty boring now. 
 
Thanks 
Andy
Posted @ Saturday, June 29, 2013 4:12 AM by Andy Cooper
hello, 
i just got a nissan sentra 2011,i wanted to put an alarm on it,but the dealer were i bought the car tells me ,it has one already. but i feel it doesnt work.my brother got one on his car and if u just kick the tires or lean on it the alarm will go off. will i be able to get an alarm for my car like this,,,or do i just stick with the one i have ? 
Posted @ Monday, July 01, 2013 2:09 PM by charly
Andy, 
If your alarm is the factory alarm then only the Mazda dealer or someone with the Mazda Scan tool can disable the alarm from the ECU. 
If it is an aftermarket alarm then it can simply be unplugged. 
Thanks, 
Support
Posted @ Monday, July 15, 2013 9:37 AM by Tech Support
Charly, 
Your brother's alarm has a shock sensor which is set to a very sensitive level. That's why it can go off just by kicking the tires. 
If you tell me the Brand and model name of the system (from the brain under the dash) then we can see about getting you a remote and whether the system is equipped with a shock sensor. 
Thanks, 
Support
Posted @ Monday, July 15, 2013 9:40 AM by Tech Support
I have bought a 2nd hand (obviously) 1991 Pontiac Firebird with a Viper DEI EZSDEI467 alarm - now after a few days the car wont start, dashboard lights go on - engine stays dead - light on the remote works fine when I press any of the 2 buttons - any help that will start the engine will be greatly appreciated - thanks
Posted @ Tuesday, August 06, 2013 3:40 PM by William
A big headache guys! I have a very complicated alarm system that was installed into my 03 Pontiac Sunfire over a year ago. The alarm works fine but just the other day it went off for the first time while I was driving. My volt meter to my battery was at 12V. I also have a DEI backup battery that is connected directly to the alarm system. After getting the car home the other day, I parked & armed the car by locking the doors and went inside for the night. No more problems. The next day I called Directed Electronics and they told me to take my car into the dealer where I got it installed and have them flash the module AB/ALL for remote start. When I went to the dealer, they told me that the problem is more than likely that my vehicle is extremely underpowered with my aftermarket stereo system and my eighteen hundred dollar alarm system. There are four sirens, three sensors, a backup battery, two window modules, smart start GPS and uhh ...mercury sensor for hood. The stereo system is even more ridiculous but I won't get into that. 
When I went to the dealer for the alarm, the alarm never activated while driving. THe dealer told me that it had time to charge the backup battery over night. Today I drove it and the alarm went off. I got it home and parked it. The alarm was off. I decided to disconnect the positive cable going to my battery to my amp in the back to allow the alternator to charge my battery quicker when I drive it again. When I tried disconnecting the wire by beginning to remove the lug nut from the positive, the alarm activated. The alarm wouldn't go off no matter what. I continued to disconnect the battery, however, even after I disconnected it, the alarm kept going. All four sirens inside and outside screamed for the next thirty minutes. I finally got underneath the steering column and located the backup battery. I removed it from the plug and the alarm shut right off. Before disconnecting the backup battery inside, I disconnected the ground to the battery in the engine compartment. Now that I had the backup battery disconnected, I went to reconnect the ground wire to the battery and put everything away. 
I couldn't keep the ground wire to the battery connected because as soon as I tried connecting it, the alarm went off again and wouldn't shut off at all. I think the problem is that the alarm knows that a device (THE BACKUP BATTERY) has been disconnected from the alarm system. Therefore it is in constant panic mode. The little white clip that the backup battery connects to has a red and black wire going to it where the backup battery clip clips right into. I was wondering if I cut the clip off and tied those wires together if it would stop "LOOKING" for the battery so that I would be able to just connect my battery in the engine compartment again and be on my way. I know better though than to connect positive with negative. I'm not that stupid but I was just curious of how I could stop the alarm from seeking out that backup battery that has been disconnected. and then again maybe that isn't the problem but i am pretty sure it is. 
 
I really need to hear from professionals whom have a lot of experience in aftermarket alarm systems, especially VIPER alarm systems. I'm no professional but if you were to tell me what to do, i'm pretty smart. As of now, my car is not operable because if I connect it to the battery, the alarm will go off. BTW the alarm when it goes off it just goes through all those different siren noises. the lights DO NOT FLASH. My iphone doesn't receive text messages or emails sending from my smart start meaning that the alarm isn't really going off. When I activate the alarm as the sirens are already going off, THEN THe lights start flashing and THEN I am notified on my iphone that my alarm has been activated. I'm also able to start the engine and drive with the sirens blaring. That was my problem before because it went off while I was driving. So I think all of this has to do with battery issues. I really hope someone here can help me out. I wonder if I could charge up the disconnected backup battery and then reconnect it? or just do something to the alarm where I won't need to reconnect the battery until a later date so that I can at least use my car and use my alarm. Also I did recently put a new battery in my keyfob. Probably the day or day before i started having these alarm issues. All buttons function on the remote. I can roll down windows start engine unlock/lock doors and trunk.... The valet mode i've never used. I might have actually i think it's the same button as the engine button to start the car. trying to do that with the valet mode never shut it off either. I might just not totally understand the function of the valet mode. Nevertheless, there is no 'switch' to arm/disarm it.
Posted @ Tuesday, August 13, 2013 5:30 AM by Ben Henderson
This answer is for William. You first need to determine what is causing the problem. It could be the DEI system or it could be something else like a weak battery. Start by unplugging the DEI system. If the car starts then you know it was the system. If it does not then you know it is something else.
Posted @ Monday, September 02, 2013 1:59 PM by Remotes And Keys
WOW Ben. I have to say, WOW. 
 
Check the blue port on the receiver to see if there is anything plugged into it. If so, follow the wire to the valet button. You can use the valet button to disarm the system when it's blaring. If there is nothing plugged into it then you can buy a valet button and plug it in.  
 
If I spent $1800 on a system installation and it wasn't working perfectly I'd be camped out at the shop that installed it to get it fixed. Have you asked them to fix it?
Posted @ Monday, September 02, 2013 2:08 PM by Remotes And Keys
@Remotes and Keys the problem was a defective siren that also had a backup battery inside of it. DEI makes this siren and it can only be shut off with a key. it wouldn't shut off with the key either. whenever I touched the siren, the alarm would go on or off. my two mini piezo sirens inside and the two sirens in the engine compartment are all hooked together so because of the one defective siren, it set all of the sirens off. the alarm was never activated just the sirens. The dealer clipped the wires inside the cable to that siren in a specific sequence to disable the siren until i decide to get another siren down the road. I still have three sirens so it's still loud as hell. problem was solved about 3-4 weeks ago.
Posted @ Monday, September 02, 2013 3:57 PM by Ben Henderson
Really i appreciate the effort you made to share the knowledge.The topic here i found was really effective to the topic which i was researching for a long time. 
Posted @ Friday, October 11, 2013 2:29 AM by Boat trailer rollers
Hi, I have a '94 Honda del Sol with a 475 Viper system with the switch instead of a button (like in the picture). I've tried just about everything to get the fob programmed but no luck. First I tried using the switch as if it were a button, but I never get a response from the system. Then I tried just leaving the switch in the Up position (which appears to maybe be valet mode but not sure). Then I tried door open, door closed, engine running, engine not running. Anything else to suggest trying? I'm really frustrated on this, thanks, Cecilia
Posted @ Saturday, October 12, 2013 8:28 PM by dc
Trace the wire from that switch to the receiver and see if it is plugged into the blue port. It may be loose and just need to be securely inserted. Or you may find another wire plugged into the blue port in which case just follow that wire to a different switch.
Posted @ Sunday, October 13, 2013 1:18 PM by Tech Support
It is plugged in: when I push the switch up, the only working fob no longer works. (I had a panic attack thinking that I'd killed my only working fob! lol) I did notice that the black box is a little different from most of those pictured online, and it has ports on at least 2 sides, instead of only one, which seems kind of weird.
Posted @ Sunday, October 13, 2013 6:15 PM by dc
What is the brand and model name on the box?
Posted @ Monday, October 14, 2013 8:21 AM by Tech Support
Hi, thanks for the response. It is a Viper PC500HF, I found this manual for it but it does not address how to program fobs, sadly: http://directed.com/guides/manuals/og/viper/438V.pdf There is also a sticker on it with the following barcode: V820359089 (the 08 are emboldened on the barcode) 
As previously, I can get in and out of valet mode, both with the switch and now (thanks to the manual) also with the one working fob. But I can't seem to program any new ones (one brand new from Amazon, two used old ones from ebay, all said to be compatible). Any suggestions highly appreciated!
Posted @ Monday, October 14, 2013 5:59 PM by dc
I HAVE A 05 ALTIMA which has a factory installed alarm but lately the horn stays on when the remote is used to lock doors. the only way to get the alarm off is to turn the key to crank position. 
please help
Posted @ Friday, October 18, 2013 5:04 PM by K.K. BLOW
I have 93 vette 
why my ignition key won't turn off alarm???
Posted @ Tuesday, October 22, 2013 9:49 PM by Troyy
Remote battery died, and my car alram keeps going off when the door is open. I'm afraid the car battery will eventually die.
Posted @ Monday, November 11, 2013 9:10 AM by BH
what are the use for the buttons on the code-alarm CATX4 installed for a 2010 lexus ES350?
Posted @ Tuesday, December 03, 2013 10:32 PM by stuart
Stuart, button 1 and 2 will be for lock and unlock, respectively. If the system was hooked up for only keyless entry then those will be the only buttons working. If the system is hooked up for security as well then the third button will do car finder / panic. If a trunk release module was installed then button 4 will open the trunk. If remote start was hooked up then button 4 will do remote start.
Posted @ Sunday, December 08, 2013 2:12 PM by Tech Support
My sisters 04 Mazda 6 has been sitting for a few weeks so battery is dead. About 3 weeks ago we jump started it to move it. All fine. This week I was going to put it on charge overnight with 12 v charger and the alarm goes off as soon as I hook up leads. Any ideas. Goes off after few mins then if we open a door or trunk it goes off again.
Posted @ Wednesday, March 19, 2014 3:00 PM by Kelly Henderson
Kelly, before answering I need to know if the remote you are using is the factory remote or an aftermarket remote. You can tell me the FCC Id or part number on the back and that will let me know. Depending which you use, the answer will be different.
Posted @ Thursday, April 17, 2014 10:45 AM by Tech Support
My alarm goes off everytime i open the trunk of my Mazda 6 2006, or use the turn signal what to do sometime went I am driving the alarm (horn) start i have to pull off the road and turn the car off
Posted @ Friday, May 02, 2014 11:31 AM by Brenda Hayes
Brenda, if the FCC ID on your remote is KR55WK49383, KPU41846, or KPU41805 then you should take your car into the Mazda service department. If the FCC ID on your remote is anything else then it is an aftermarket system and you can go to an automotive alarm shop to have the system diagnosed, repaired, or replaced. If it is aftermarket you can also solve the problem by unplugging the receiver. Here is a blog article about that: http://blog.remotesandkeys.com/blog-0/bid/66022/How-to-shut-off-your-car-alarm-when-it-is-waking-the-dead
Posted @ Friday, May 02, 2014 12:20 PM by Tech Support
I have a 2008 Hyundai Santa Fe.... 
My lights start flashing and my horn goes off only in my driveway in the wee hours of the morning, waking up everyone. It only seems to happen in my driveway, and no where else??
Posted @ Thursday, July 03, 2014 11:49 AM by
1999 accord ex. Automate alarm. Fob works and deactivates the automate alarm but the factory radio alarm trips every time after the alarm arms. Replaced a faulty driverside door lock actuator recently but that did not fix the problem. If the driver side door is left unlocked and the fob is used to unlock/ disarm the alarm system, the radio alarm does not trip and go off. Any insight?
Posted @ Tuesday, July 15, 2014 10:38 AM by mb
Hello, I have a 2002 Volvo s 80--after replacing the battery in my factory original remote as soon as I close the remote the horn stars blowing--as if the alarm was set off--very hard to try and reset because of the constant horn blowing--thank you for any help
Posted @ Friday, July 18, 2014 9:07 PM by Buzzy
Hi I have a 2008 Madza 2 and the remote is playing up. Sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't. Changed the battery and cleaned the contacts and still the same problem. I have had to open it with the key and sometimes the alarm goes off and sometimes it doesn't. Thankfully when it's gone off I've pushed the lock and unlock on the remote a few times and it eventually worked which put the alarm off but I'm concerned if the time comes when that doesn't work how will I put the alarm off? It's a factory fitted alarm. Any advice on how to put the alarm, off with the key alone and on what the problem with the remote could be would be appreciated.
Posted @ Saturday, July 26, 2014 2:14 PM by Liberty
After much research on the internet, I came across the simple cause and the simple fix for my annoying car alarm problem. Old car fobs (keyless remotes) do wear out as well as their switches. Apparently the "lock all doors" switch on my remote was stuck or broken. So every time I was near the car with the fob with broken switch -- the alarm kept being set off. When I took the battery out of the remote "fob" -- no more problem.
Posted @ Sunday, October 12, 2014 4:44 PM by Jim Meissner
I have a 2006 Mazda3 and after replacing the car battery, the lights do not flash when arming/locking the car. The doors are locking... If I press the second time the honk makes the sound. Is there any way to make them flash again? Kindly appreciated the help.
Posted @ Sunday, November 09, 2014 5:20 PM by teddy
At 4:30 this morning,my car alarm went off blaring, I tried the remote, inserting my key in the doors and starting the engine, I could not get it stopped. What else could I have done to my 1994 Park Avenue Buick? 
Posted @ Wednesday, November 12, 2014 7:50 AM by Elizabeth
Steve: Take your car to a local alarm shop to have the system diagnosed. 
 
mb: You have more than one system in the car. The one through the radio sounds like the honda dealer installed system, not usually used on the EX because that has the factory installed system. Get the honda dealer installed remote or remove the honda dealer installed system. 
 
Buzzy: Sounds like the Panic button is getting depressed somehow when you close the remote. 
 
Liberty: Replace the problem remote with a new remote. 
 
Jim: Thanks for your input. Taking the battery out of the fob will stop that problem but create another one - not being able to use the fob. I suggest getting a new fob and forgetting about that problem one. 
 
Teddy: Check in your vehicle owner's manual. Some vehicles are capable of customizing those honks and flashes to some degree. Yours may be one of them. 
 
Elizabeth: At 4:30am, if I couldn't get the alarm to stop with the remote, key, or valet switch, I'd disconnect the car battery. Then I'd re-connect at a reasonable hour and try those things again.
Posted @ Friday, November 14, 2014 9:29 AM by Tech Support
Post Comment
Name
 *
Email
 *
Website (optional)
Comment
 *

Allowed tags: <a> link, <b> bold, <i> italics

Disclaimer

No liability for the use of advice and information are assumed whatsoever for any costs, claims or damages filed for or caused by correct or incorrect use of the information provided.  We cannot and are not responsible for any type of damage, intentional or otherwise, caused by the use of this information.  We are not responsible for any type of harm, whether physical or otherwise, due to correct or incorrect use of the procedures,techniques, or advice provided.